Christopher Gist Journal (page 3)

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Monday 18.—N 45 W5 M then SW 20 M, to the lower Salt Lick Creek, which Robert Smith and the Indians told Us was about 15 M above the Falls of Ohio; the Land still hilly, the Salt Lick here much the same with those before described— this Day We heard several Guns which made me imagine the French Indians were not moved, but were still hunting, and firing thereabouts: We also saw some Traps newly set, and the Footsteps of some Indians plain on the Ground as if they had been there the Day before—I was now much troubled that I could not comply with my Instructions, & was once resolved to leave the Boy and Horses, and to go privately on Foot to view the Falls, but the Boy being a poor Hunter, was afraid he woud starve if I was long from him, and there was also great Danger lest the French Indians shoud come upon our Horses Tracts, or hear their Bells, and as I had seen good Land enough, I thought perhaps I might be blamed for venturing so far, in such dangerous Times, so I concluded not to go to the Falls, but travell'd away to the Southward till We were over the little Cuttaway River—The Falls of Ohio by the best Information I coud get are not very steep, on the SE Side there is a Bar of Land at some Distance from the Shore, the Water between the Bar and the Shore is not above 3 feet deep, and the Stream moderately strong, the Indians frequently pass safely in their Canoes thro this Passage, but are obliged to take great Care as, they go down lest the Current which is much the strongest on the NW Side shoud draw them that Way; which woud be very dangerous as the Water, on that Side runs with great Rapidity over several Ledges of Rocks; the Water below the Falls they say is about six Fathoms deep, and the River continues without any Obstructions till it empties itself into the Missisippi which is accounted upwards of 400 M—The Ohio near the Mouth is said to be very wide, and the Land upon both Sides very, rich, and in general very level, all the Way from the Falls—After I had determined not to go to the Falls, We turned from Salt Lick Creek, to a Ridge of Mountains that made towards the Cuttaway River, & from the Top of the Mountain We saw a fine level Country SW as Far as our Eyes coud behold, and it was a very clear Day; We then went down the Mountain and set out S 20 W about 5 M, thro rich level Land covered with small Walnut Sugar Trees, Red-Buds, &c.

Tuesday March 19.—We set out S and crossed several Creeks all running to the SW, at about 12 M, came to the little Cuttaway River: We were obliged to go up it about 1 M to an Island, which was the shoalest Place We coud find to cross at, We then continued Our Course in all about 30 M thro level rich Land except about 2 M which was broken and indifferent—This Level is about 35 M broad, and as We came up the Sidle of it along the Branches of the little Cuttaway We found it about 150 M long; and how far toward the SW We coud not tell, but imagined it held as far as the great Cuttaway River, which woud be upwards of 100 M more, and appeared much broader that Way than here, as I coud discern from the Tops of the Mountains.

Wednesday 20.—We did not travel, I went up to the Top of a Mountain to view the Country, to the SE it looked very broken, and mountainous but to the Eastward and SW it appeared very level.

Thursday 21.—Set out S 45 E 15 M, S 5 M, here I found a Place where the Stones shined like high-coloured Brass, the Heat of the Sun drew out of them a Kind of Borax or Salt Petre only something sweeter; some of which I brought in to the Ohio Company, tho I believe it was Nothing but a Sort of Sulphur.

Friday 22.—SE 12 M, I killed a fat Bear, and was taken sick that Night. Saturday 23.—I stayed here, and sweated after the Indian Fashion, which helped Me.

Sunday 24.—Set out E 2 M, NE 3 M, N 1 M, E 2 M, SE 5 M, E 2 M, N 2 M, SE 7 M to a small Creek, where We encamped in a Place where We had but poor Food for our Horses, & both We and They were very much wearied: the Reason of our making so many short Courses was, We were driven by a Branch of the little Cuttaway River (whose Banks were so exceeding steep that it was impossible to ford it) into a Ledge of rocky Laurel Mountains which were almost impassable.

Monday 25.—Set out SE 12 M, N 2 M, E 1 M, S 4 M, SE 2 M, We killed a Buck Elk here and took out his Tongue to carry with Us. Tuesday 26.—Set out SE 10 M, SW 1 M, SE 1 M, SW 1 M, SE 1 M, SW 1 M, SE 1 M, SW 1 M, SE 5 M, killed 2 Buffaloes & took out their Tongues, and encamped—These two Days We travelled thro Rocks and Mountains full of Laurel Thickets which We coud hardly creep thro without cutting our Way.

Wednesday 27.—Our Horses and Selves were so tired that We were obliged to stay this Day to rest, for We were unable to travel—On all the Branches of the little Cuttaway River was great Plenty of fine Coal some of which I brought in to the Ohio Company.

Thursday 28.—Set out SE 15 M crossing several Creeks of the little Cuttaway River, the Land still full of Coal and black Slate.

Friday 29.—The same Course SE about 12 M the Land still mountainous. Saturday 30.—Stayed to rest our Horses, I went on Foot, and found a Passage thro the Mountains to another Creek, or a Fork of the same Creek that We were upon.

Sunday 31.—The same Course SE 15 M, killed a Buffaloe & encamped. Monday April 1.—Set out the same Course about 20 M. Part of the Way We went along a Path up the Side of a little Creek, at the Head of which was a Gap in the Mountains, then our Path went down another Creek to a Lick where Blocks of Coal about 8 to 10 In. square lay upon the Surface of the Ground, here We killed a Bear and encamped.

Wednesday 3.—S 1 M, SW 3 M, E 3 M, SE 2 M, to a small Creek on which was a large Warriors Camp, that woud contain 70 or 8o Warriors, their Captain's Name or Title was the Crane, as I knew by his Picture or Arms painted on a Tree.

Friday April - 5.—Rained, and We stayed at the Warrior's Camp. Saturday 6.—We went along the Warrior's Road

Tuesday 9 & Wednesday 10.—The Weather being somewhat bad We did not travel these two Days, the Country being still rocky mountainous, & full of Laurel Thickets, the worst traveling I ever saw.

Friday 12.—Set out thro very difficult Ways E 5 M, to a small Creek. Saturday 13.—The same Course E upon a streight Line, tho the Way We were obliged to travel was near 20 M, here We killed two Bears, the Way still rocky and mountainous. Sunday 14.—As Food was very scarce in these barren Mountains, We were obliged to move for fresh Feeding for our Horses, so We went on E 5 M, then N 20 W 6 M, to a Creek where We got something better Feeding for our Horses, in climbing up the Clifts and Rocks this Day two of our Horses fell down, and were pretty much hurt, and a Paroquete, which I had got from the Indians, on the other Side the Ohio (where there are a great many) died of a Bruise he got by a Fall; tho it was but a Trifle I was much concerned at losing Him, as he was perfectly tame, and had been very brisk all the Way, and I had still Corn enough left to feed Him—In the Afternoon I left the Horses, and went a little Way down the Creek, and found such a Precipice and such Laurel Thickets as We coud not pass, and the Horses were not able to go up the Mountain till they had rested a Day or two.

Monday 15.—We cut a Passage through the Laurels better than 2 M, as I was climbing up the Rocks, I got a Fall which hurted Me pretty much—This Afternoon as We wanted Provision I killed a Bear.

Wednesday 17.—This Day I went to the Top of a Mountain to view the Way, and found it so bad that I did not care to engage it, but rather chose to go out of the Way and keep down along the Side of a Creek till I coud find a Branch or Run on the other Side to go up.

Thursday 18.—Set out down the said Creek Side N 3 M, then the Creek turning NW I was obliged to leave it, and go up a Ridge NE 1 M, E 2 M, SE 2 M, NE 1 M, to the Fork of a River. Friday 19.—Set out down the said Run NE 2 M, E 2 M, SE 2 M, N 20 E 2 M, E 2 M, up a large Run. Saturday 20.—Set out SE 10 M, E 4 M, over a small Creek—We had such bad traveling down this Creek, that We had like to have lost one of our Horses. Sunday 21.—Stayed to rest our Horses. Monday 22.—Rained all Day—We coud not travel. Tuesday 23.—Set out E 8 M along a Ridge of Mountains then SE 5 M, E 3 M, SE 4 M, and encamped among very steep Mountains. Wednesday 24.—SE 4 M thro steep Mountains and Thickets E 6 M.

Saturday 27 Sunday 28 & Monday 29.—These three Days it continued raining & bad Weather, so that We Coud nottravel—All the Way from Salt Lick Creek to this Place, the Branches of the little Cuttaway River were so high that We coud not pass Them, which obliged Us to go over the Heads of them, thro a continued Ledge of almost inaccessible Mountains, Rocks and Laurel Thickets.

Tuesday 30.—Fair Weather set out E 3 M, SE 8 M, E 2 M, to a little River or Creek which falls into the big Conhaway, called blue Stone, where we encamped and had good Feeding for our Horses.

Wednesday May 1.—Set out N 75 E 10 M and killed a Buffaloe, then went up a very high Mountain, upon the Top of which was a Rock 60 or 70 Feet high, & a Cavity in the Middle, into which I went, and found there was a Passage thro it which gradually ascended to the Top, with several Holes in the Rock, which let in the Light, when I got to the Top of this Rock, I could see a prodigious Distance, and coud plainly discover where the big Conhaway River broke the next high Mountain, I then came down and continued my Course N 75 E 5 M farther and encamped.

Thursday 2 & Friday 3.—These two Days it rained and We stayed at our Camp to take Care of some Provision We had killed. Saturday 4.—This Day our Horses run away, and it was late before We got Them, so We coud not travel far, We went N 75 E 4 M.

Tuesday 7.—Set out E 10 M, to the big Conhaway or new River and got over half of it to a large Island where We lodged that Night.

>Wednesday 8.—We made a Raft of Logs and crossed the other half of the River & went up it S about 2 M—The Conhaway or new River (by some called Wood's River) where I crossed it (which was about 8 M above the Mouth Of blue Stone River) is better than 200 Yards wide, and pretty deep; but full of Rocks and Falls—The Bottoms upon it and blue Stone River are very rich but narrow, the high Land broken.

Thursday 9.—Set out E 13 M to a large Indian Warrior's Camp, where We killed a Bear and stayed all Night.

Friday 10.—Set out E 4 M, SE 3 M, S 3 M, thro Mountains cover'd with Ivy and Laurel Thickets. Saturday 11.—Set out S 2 M, SE 5 M, to a Creek and a Meadow where We let our Horses feed; then SE 2 M, S 1 M, SE 2 M to a very high Mountain up on the Top of which was a Lake or Pond about 3/4 of a Mile long NE & SW, & 1/4 of a Mile wide the Water fresh and Clear, and a clean gravelly Shore about 10 Yards wide with a fine Meadow and six fine Springs in it, then S about 4 M, to a Branch of the Conhaway called Sinking Creek.

Monday 13.—Set out SE 2 M, E 1 M, SE 3 M, S12 M to one Richard Halls in Augusta County this Man is one of the farthest Settlers to the Westward upon the New River.

Tuesday 14 —Stayed at Richard Hall's and wrote to the President of Virginia & the Ohio Company to let them know I shoud be with Them by the 15th of June.

Wednesday 15.—Set out from Richard Hall's S 16 M.

Thursday 16.—The same Course S 22 M and encamped at Beaver Island Creek (a Branch of the Conhaway) opposite to the Head of Roanoke.

Friday 17.—Set out SW 3 M, then S 9 M, to the dividing Line between Carolina and Virginia, where I stayed all Night, the Land from Rich Hall's to this Place is broken.

Saturday 18.—Set out S 20 M to my own House on the Yadkin River, when I came there I found all my Family gone, for the Indians had killed five People in the Winter near that Place, which frightened my Wife and Family away to Roanoke about 35 M nearer in among the Inhabitants, which I was informed of by an old Man I met near the Place.

Sunday 19 —Set out for Roanoke, and as We had now a Path, We got there the same Night where I found all my Family well.

CHRISTOPHER GIST.

CHRISTOPHER GIST'S SECOND JOURNAL
Second Journal - November 4, 1751 to March 29, 1752

Excerpt: (see above link for second set of Instructions from the Ohio Company, and Journal 2)