OXLADE FAMILY HISTORY

THE WORSHIPFUL COMPANY OF CORDWAINERS

OCCUPATIONS

What Is A Cordwainer And What Is Their Background?

An Ancient Calling

The term "Cordwainer" is an Anglicization of the French word cordonnier, introduced into our language after the Norman invasion of England in 1066. The word itself is derived from the city of Cordoba, in the south of Spain, a stronghold of the mighty Omeyyad Kalifs until its fall in the 12th century. Moorish Cordoba was celebrated for two staple trades in the early Middle Ages, silversmithing and the production of cordouan(cordovan)leather, called "cordwain" in England. Originally made from the skin of the Musoli goat, then found in Corsica, Sardinia, and elsewhere, this leather was "tawed" with alum after a method supposedly known only to the Moors. English Crusaders brought home much plunder and loot, including the finest leather the English shoemakers had ever seen. Gradually cordouan, or cordovan leather became the material most in demand for the finest footwear in all of Europe.
The English term cordwainer, meaning shoemaker, first appears in 1100. By the late 13th century a distinction grew in England between Cordwainers. proper, called alutari, who used only alum "tawed" cordwain, and another class of shoemakers called basanarii, who employed an inferior "tanned" sheepskin which was prohibited for footwear apart from long boots. Since this period the term cordouan, or cordovan leather, has been applied to several varieties of leather. Today cordovan leather is a "vegetable tanned" horse "shell," and like the Medieval cordwain is used only for the highest quality shoes.

Since the Middle Ages the title of Cordwainer has been selected by the shoemakers themselves, and used rather loosely; however, generally it always refers to a certain class of shoe and boot-makers. The first English guild of shoemakers who called themselves "Cordwainers" was founded at Oxford in 1131. "Cordwainers" was also the choice of the London shoemakers, who had organized a guild before 1160, and the Worshipful Company of Cordwainers has likewise used this title since receiving their first Ordinances in 1272.

First Cordwainers in America

The first "Cordwainers," or shoemakers, to arrive in America came to Jamestown, Virginia, the first permanent English settlement in this continent established in 1607. Captain John Smith, an alleged Cordwainer himself, was first among the leaders of the settlement, from which began the overseas expansion of the English speaking peoples as the earliest outpost of the British Empire, and the first beginnings of the United States of America. Captain Smith's historic adventure of settlement was, in part, supported by profits made in the English shoe trade.

Shoemakers, tanners, and other tradesmen had arrived in Jamestown by 1610, and the Secretary of Virginia had recorded the flourishing shoe and leather trades there as early as 1616. The first shoemaker to arrive in America, whose name has been preserved, was Christopher Nelme, who had sailed from Bristol, England and arrived in Virginia in 1619. Nearly one year later, when the first Pilgrim settlers landed in Massachusetts, they relied upon the colony in Virginia for several vital commodities and when the first shoemakers arrived there, in 1629, it is likely that they survived in part on Virginia leather until their own tanners were established. Throughout the late 17th century, Virginian exported her leather to New England, initially supplying the shoe trade which boomed there after the 1760's.

"Cordwainer" not "Cobbler"

One distinction preserved by Cordwainers since the earliest times is, that a Cordwainer works only with new leather, where a Cobbler works with old. Cobblers have always been repairers, frequently prohibited by law from actually making shoes. Even going so far as to collect worn-out footwear, cut it apart, and remanufacture cheap shoes entirely from salvaged leather, Cobblers have contended with Cordwainers since at least the Middle Ages. In 16th century London the Cordwainers solved their conflicts with the Cobblers of that city by placing them under the powerful authority of the Cordwainer's guild, thus merging with them.

Whenever shoemakers have organized, they have shown a clear preference for the title "Cordwainer," conscious of the distinguished history and tradition it conveys. Today's Cordwainer is no exception. The current generation of boot and shoemakers includes a growing number of self-employed tradesmen and women, who having largely adopted early hand-sewn techniques supplemented by only a few simple machines out of economic necessity, continue to practice the traditional skills established centuries ago. In the face of declining domestic footwear production every year, it can be easily said that the true future of this trade lays in its past, and is being insured by the skilled hands of these modern Cordwainers.

St. Crispin

Shoemaking has a long history and one that is rich in tradition. Within the trade itself--among shoe and bootmakers--the legends, the traditions, and the history really begin with St. Crispin. St. Crispin is the patron saint of shoemakers. Since medieval times, October 25th has been celebrated as St. Crispin's Day and the Shoemaker's Holiday. In the past, boot and shoemakers traditionally closed their shops on this day, in celebration and commemoration.

But there is more to the story of St. Crispin than meets the eye. Actually there are two stories that seem to be the same...one in England, one in France. Crispin and his brother Crispianus were born into a wealthy Roman family in the third century A.D.. During the Diocletion persecution of Christians they escape to Noviodunum in France--later known as Soissons. Effectively disinherited and forced to fall back upon their own resources, Crispin and Crispianus become shoemakers. Although teaching the gospel was their life's work, they made shoes for the poor. Arrested and led before the Roman authorities, they were urged to recant. Both refused. Whereupon millstones were hung about thier necks and they were thrown into the Aisne river. But both had the makings of sainthood in them even then and they refused to drown. At this point they were thrown into a cauldron of boiling lead followed by a cauldron of pitch, fat and oil but again, they emerge unscathed. Legend even suggests that they frolicked and sang until delivered by an angel. Finally they were beheaded on November 8th, 288 A.D. on a plain near Soissons, which later became known as St. Crepin-en-Chaye.

The English version depicts Crispin and his brother as the sons of the queen of Logia (Kent). In order to escape the persecution being waged against Christians by Diocletian, the two brothers dress in commoners clothes and leave their mother and the town of their birth--now known as Canterbury. Arriving in Faversham in the middle of the night they knock on a door from which merry song is emanating. This turns out to be the house of Robards, a master shoemaker. Impressed by their manners, Robards takes them in. Straight away they enter into a seven year apprenticeship. So good was their work that Robards soon finds himself apponted shoemaker to Maximinus (Diocletian's associate Emperor in the Roman Empire). Sent to Canterbury with shoes for Ursula, the Emperors daughter, Crispin is struck by her beauty and falls in love with her. After all the trials and tribulations that love and class can inflict upon them, Ursula and Crispin marry in secret. When Maximinus finally learns of Crispin's high birth he becomes reconciled to their marriage and even blesses their son saying " A shoemaker's son is a prince born." The secret marriage was confirmed on October the 25th and was celebrated with much feasting and drinking. And that day has ever since been the Shoemakers' holiday.

Although the story is probably a 15th or 16th century retelling of the Crispin legend, we know a little more about St. Hugh, who, although never formally canonized, is the English counterpart to St. Crispin. Hugh was born a prince of Britain, son of Arviragus–king of Powisland (modern day Wales). He fell in love with a beautiful Christian princess, Winifred of Flintshire. Winifred's story contains many of the same elements of the 7th century Saint Winifred of Holywell and Shrewsbury fame. Her appearance in the legend of St. Hugh is similar in that having taken a vow of chastity, she cruelly spurns Hugh's overtures. In despair, Hugh sets out upon a journey across Europe. At last tired and convinced that he has mistaken Winifred's intentions, he takes passage back to England. Mid journey his ship is caught in a storm and Hugh is the only survivor. When he finally makes it back to his home, he is destitute. Thrown back his own resources, Hugh becomes a shoemaker, preaching the gospel by day and plying his craft by night. Hugh renews his suit of Winifred (who, like her namesake, is now living by a spring) but to his dismay, the results are the same. When Winifred is arrested and condemned to death for her devotion to God, Hugh sets off to Flintshire. There he speaks so highly of her and praises her so lavishly, that he is imprisoned and condemned to share her fate. According to the story, both Hugh and Winifred were put to death about 300 A.D.. Winifred was bled to death in emulation of the wounds that Christ received. Hugh was made to drink a poisoned cup of her blood, and then he was hung. Legend has it that his fellow shoemakers kept constant vigil and consoled him during the time of his imprisonment. As he drank from the poisoned cup, he bequeathed all his worldly goods to his friends. Since he was destitute, all he had to leave them was his bones After his death, his friends pulled his body from the gibbet and distributed his bones. These were made into tools for making shoes. For many years, in fact, a shoemaker's tool kit was called St. Hugh's Bones.

Photographs

The Museum of Leather Craft

Source

The Worshipful Company of Cordwainers

England

Early History

The word ‘CORDWAINER’ comes from the ancient Spanish leather centre of Cordoba where the Arabs used an alum dressing process on goatskin to produce a fine white leather that became known as ‘cordovan’ or ‘cordwain’. The Latin word for this kind of leather is ‘aluta’ and workers were called ‘alutarii’, a term found in the Cordwainers Company’s first Charter of 1439. ‘Corium’ is the term used for coarse leather like cowhide but curiously the word has been used in the Company’s motto, ‘CORIO ET ARTE’, which can be translated as ‘Leather and Art’.

Initially all craftsmen working with fine leather were called ‘cordwainers’ and this included shoewrights, girdlers (beltmakers), pouchmakers, pursers, malemakers (leather trunk makers), botteliers (leather bottle makers) and glovers as well as those who prepared the leather, whitetawyers, curriers, tanners and dyers. Gradually the title of ‘cordwainer’ was restricted to makers of fine footwear and the other crafts formed their own guilds.

Later History

Religious persecution in Europe in the 16th century brought many foreigners to London, including shoemakers who refused to recognise the authority of the Guild. The position must have been serious in 1514 when the Cordwainers, supported by other leather guilds, put forward a petition to Henry VIII to limit the number of master shoemakers in London. There are reports that the Livery of 140 had been reduced to 20 by 1528.

The Cordwainers, in common with other Livery Companies, found that their problems increased during the reign of James I. The ‘Great Statute of Leather’ dated 1604 defined many trade practices and confirmed the right of search but ended the precious trade monopoly. When Parliament denied him finance, James turned to the Livery Companies for ‘loans’. The practice continued and during the Civil War, the City had to find £10,000 weekly; in 1642 the Cordwainers began to sell their silver and by 1655 brought in severe austerity measures. The Great Fire of 1666 was disastrous as the Company lost not only its Hall but also much of its remaining property. Most of its records were lost, and although the bravery of the Clerk saved many valuables, many had to be sold to enable to Company to survive.

In the 18th century, the Industrial Revolution brought inevitable decline to the guilds’ control of their trades. It was not until late in the 19th century that they began to rediscover their role in education and their value as advisors to their trades.

Cordwainers’ Halls

A small blue plaque in the garden of St. Paul’s Churchyard facing Cannon Street commemorates five Halls built on the same site - a site which had been associated with the Company since 1316. The fifth and last Hall was built in 1909-10 but on the fateful night of 10th May 1941, the building was gutted during the Blitz. The Company gratefully accepted the invitation of its President to use the facilities of the Law Society in Chancery Lane and has continued to do so until the present day.

Education and Training

The Industrial Revolution not only ended the guilds’ control of their trades, it also swept away the apprenticeship system. The Cordwainers’ Company was one of those foresighted enough to promote technical training as a founder member of the City and Guilds Institute in 1878, and then the establishment of the Leather Trades’ School in Bethnal Green in 1887. This became the Cordwainers’ Technical College in 1913 and later the Cordwainers College in Hackney. In addition to comprehensive courses in footwear design and manufacture, instruction was given in design and production of leather goods and saddlery, with students coming not only from the UK but also worldwide. In 2000, the educational provision was transferred to establish the Cordwainers at the London College of Fashion with the saddlery section moving to Capel Manor College, Enfield, both of which the Company still supports. In addition to the support given to these two Colleges, the Company has supported the introduction of footwear courses at the College of Art, University of Northampton and, coinciding with the building of low cost student accommodation in Hackney, established the Cordwainers Educational and Training Charitable Trust in 1995. As well as the provision of accommodation, the Trust will provide for scholarships, bursaries and prizes for students undergoing footwear and associated vocational courses.

 Source

Last changed: 28/05/2006, 18:09:27