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SUTHREY
REGNI
EXT
unto the Attrebati Eastward, called the people in Latin Regni,
by Ptolomee ??????, inhabited those Regions which wee at this day
doe commonly terme Surry and South-sex, with the Sea coast of
Hantshire. As touching the Etymologie of this name, I will passe
over my conceits in silence, because peradventure they would
carrie no more truth with them, that if I should think they were
by Ptolomey called ?????? for that it was regnum, that
is, a Kingdome, and the Romans permitted the people thereof to
remaine under a regall government. for in this tract it was that,
as Tacitus writeth, certain Cities, according to an old Custome
of the people of Rome, were given to Cogidunus, a British king,
that they might have even Kings also as instruments to draw
others into bondage and servitude. But this conjecture seeming to
my selfe not probable, and haply to others absurd, I utterly
reject, and willingly embrace the Saxon originall of these latter
names, to wit, that South-sex taketh denomination of the
South-Saxons, and Suthrey of the South situation upon the River,
for no man may denie that Suthr-rey importeth so much,
considering that Over-rhey in the old English tongue
signifieth Over or beyond the river.
URRIA,
which Bede named Suthriona,
commonly called Suthrey and Surrey, and by the Saxons, of
bordering South (upon the river) Suth-rea,
for suth
with
them betokeneth the South, and rea
a
river of floud, from the West bounded partly upon Barkshire and
Hantshire, from the South upon Sussex, and from the East on Kent;
toward the North it is watered with the river Tamis, and by it
divided from Middlesex. A country it is not very large, yet
wealthy enough where it beareth upon Tamis, and lieth as a plaine
and champion [lowland] country: it yeeldeth corne meetely well,
and forrage abundantly, especially toward the South, where a
continuall valley falling lowe by little and little, called in
times past Holmesdale of the woods therein, runneth downe, very
pleasant to behold by reason of the delectable varietie of
groves, fields, and medowes. On each side there bee prety hills
rising up a great way along in the country, parkes every where
replenished with Deare, rivers also of fish, whereby it affordeth
for pleasure faire game of hunting, and as delightsome fishing.
Likened it is by some unto a coarse freese garment with a greene
gard, or to a cloath of a great spinning and thin woven, with a
greene list [border] about it, for that the inner part is but
barraine, the outward edge or skirt more fertile. In my
perambulation through this shire I will follow the Tamis and the
rivers running into it as guides of my journey: so shall I bee
sure to omit no memorable thing, seeing that the places which are
of greater marke and antiquitie doe all abutte upon these
rivers.
2.
The Tamis (that we may follow his course with the streame, as it
runneth downe), so soone as hee hath taken his leave of
Barkshire, passeth hard by Chertsey, which Beda calleth the Isle
of Cerotus. Now scarce halfe an Island, unlesse it bee by winter
waters, wherein, as a place severed from all intercourse and
commerce with men, Firthwald, as hee calleth himselfe in the
charter of the foundation, a
petty Prince or regent of the Province of Surrey under Woilpher
King of the Mercians,
and Erchenwald, Bishop of London in the first rising of the
English primitive church, founded a little monasterie, wherein
for a time that most devout king Henrie the Sixt lay interred,
whom being deposed from his regal dignity, the house of Yorke, to
establish their kingdome securely, deprived also of his life, and
here without any honour buried him. But King Henrie the Seaventh
afterwards having translated his bodie to Windesor and bestowed
in in a new tombe, solemnized his funeralls after a princely
manner, and so much admired his Godly and holy vertues (for hee
was the lively patterne of Christian pietie and pacience) that
hee dealt with Pope Julius to have him made a Saint. But the
reason why this tooke no effect was the Popes covetousnesse, who
demaunded too great a summe of money for a kings Canonization, as
they terme it, so that hee might seeme ready to graunt those kind
of honours not for the Princes holinesse sake, but for gold. A
little beneath this, the river Wey runneth into Tamis, which
flowing forth out of Hantshire, so soone as it is come into
Suthrey visiteth Feornham, commonly termed Farnham, so named of
much ferne growing in that place: which Aethelbald king of the
West Saxons, to use his own words, Gave
unto the Bishop and congregation of Winchester church. Here
abut the yeare of our Lord 893 king Aelfred with a small powre
put to flight the Danes as they spoiled and harried the country,
and afterwards, when King Stephan had granted leave to as many as
sided with him to build Castles, Henrie of Bloys, brother to King
Stephen, erected a spatious Castle upon an hill that overtopped
the towne, which being a refuge for rebellious and seditious
persons, King Henrie the Third cast it downe, howbeit the Bishops
of Winchester unto whom it belonged built it up againe. And not
far from hence at Waverley William Giffard Bishop of Winchester
founded an Abbay for Monkes of the Cistercian order ‡commonly
called White Monkes. which Abbay being a grand-child, as they
termed it, from Cisterce in Burgundy, was so fruitfull here in
England that was mother to the Abbaies of Gerondon-Ford, Tame,
Cumb, and grandmother to Bordesley, Bidlesden, Bruer, Bindon, and
Dunkeswell. For so religious orders were wont to keepe in
pedegree manner the propagation of their orders as a deduction of
Colonies out of them.‡ From thence Wey, holding on his
course by Godelming, which King Aelfred bequeathed unto Athelweld
his brother sonne, not farre from the Mannor of Cateshull, which
Hamon of Catton held to bee the Maresitum of harlots when the
king came into those part. Not farre from Loseley, where wee saw
a large faire house belonging to the familie of the Mores,
Knights, within a parke, it commeth to Guilford, in the Saxon
tongue Gulthe-ford,
and in some copies written Gegldford.
A
mercate towne it is now, well frequented and full of faire Innes,
but in old time it was a roiall mansion of the English Saxon
kings, which also that noble Aethelwald held as a legacie from
his Unkle by his fathers side. The king hath now thereby a
decaying house, and not farre from the river are to be seene the
broken walles of an old large castle. But in the mids of the
towne there is a church, the west end whereof made of ariched
[arched] worke, and embowed over head, seemeth to bee very
ancient. Heere, as is to be seene in William the First his booke,
the king had seaventy five hages,
that is, houses, wherein remained one hundred seaventy and five
men. But for nothing is it so famous as for the treacherie and
cruelty of Godwin Earle of Kent, who in the yeare of Christ 1036,
when Aelfred king Etheldreds son and heire apparent to the crowne
of England, came out of Normandie to claime his right,
entertained him with faithfull promise of safety, but forthwith
hardly entreated [treated] him contrary to his word. For sodainly
in the dead of the night hee surprised and put to death in this
place sixe hundred Normans who had accompanied the young Prince,
by tithing them, as our writers report. Neither slew hee every
tenth man of them drawne by lot according to the old militarie
custome, but even as hee had killed nine, hee let the tenth man
goe by, and even these tenth men thus reserved hee went over
againe and most cruelly retithed them. As for Aelfred him selfe,
hee delivered him into the hands of Harold the Dane, who after
hee had pulled both eyes out of his head, over-layed him with
irons and kept him in close prison even unto his dying day.
3.
Wey being passed from hence with a long course Northward,
sheweth nothing memorable besides Sutton, the residence of the
Westons, an ancient familie of knights degree bettered by an
heire of Thomas Camel.‡Oking, where King Henrie the Seaventh
repaired and and enlarged the Mannor house, beeing the
inheritance of the Lady Margaret Countesse of Richmont his
mother. Newark, sometime a small Priory invironed with divided
streames.‡ Pyriford, where in our remembrance Edward Earle
of Lincoln, Lord Clinton and Admirall of England, built him an
house, and Ockham hard by, where that great Philosopher and
father of the Nominals William de Ockham was borne and whereof
hee tooke that name, ‡as of the next village Ripley, Richard
de Ripley, a ringleader of our Alchimists and mystical impostor.‡
But where this Wey is discharged into Tamis at a double mouth,
Otelands, a proper house of the King, offereth it selfe to be
seene within a parke. Nere unto which Caesar passed over Tamis
into the borders of Cassivelaunus. For this was the onely pace
where a man might in times past goe over the Tamis on foote, and
that hardly too, which the Britains themselves improvidently
bewraied unto Caesar. For on the otherside of the river there was
a great power of the Britains well appointed and in readinesse,
and the very banke it selfe was fensed with sharpe stakes fastned
affront against the enemy, and others of the same sort pitched
downe in the Chanell, stucke covered with the river. The tokens
whereof, saith Beda, are
seene this day, and it seemeth to the beholders that every one of
them carrying the thicknesse of a mans thigh and covered over
with lead, sticke unmoveable, as beeing driven hard into the
bottome of the river. But
the Romanes entred the river with such force, when the water
reached up to their verie chinnes, that the Britains could not
abide their violence, but left the banke and betooke themselves
to flight. In this thing I cannot bee deceived, considering that
the river heere is scarce six foote deepe, the place at this daye
of those stakes is called Coway-stakes, and Caesar maketh the
borders of Cassivelaunus were hee setteth downe his passage over
the river to bee about fourescore Italian miles from the sea
which beateth upon the East-coast of Kent where hee landed, and
at this very same distance is this passage of ours.
4.
Within some few miles from thence the river Mole, having from the
South side passed through the whole country, hasteneth to joine
with the Tamis, but at length beeing letted [obstructed] by
overthwart hils, maketh him selfe a way under the ground in
manner of a mouldwarp [mole], like unto that famous river Anas in
Spaine, whereof it may seeme that it tooke name, seeing that
creature living within the ground is called also in English a
Mole. But upon this river there is not any thing of note, save
onely a good way off from the spring and head of it and neere
unto an old port way of the Romanes making (which men call
Stanystreet) there stands the towne Aclea, commonly Ockley, so
named of Okes, where Aethelwolph the sonne of Egbert, who having
beene professed in the holy orders and released by the Popes
authority, when hee had possession of his fathers kingdome by
right of inheritance, joined battaile with the Danes, fought with
good successe, and slew all the valiantest men among them. Yet
did hee little or no good to his native country, the Danes
evermore renewing their forces still as they were overthrowne,
like unto that serpent Hydra. A little from the fountaines where
this river springeth standeth Gatton, which now is scarce a small
village, though in times past it hath beene a famous towne. To
prove the antiquity whereof it sheweth Roman coines digged forth
of the ground, and sendeth unto the Parliament two Burgesses.
Lower than that is seated Rhei-gat (which if a man interprete
according to our auncient language, is as much as The
Rivers course),
in a vale running out farre into the east called Holmesdale. The
Inhabitants whereof, for that once or twise they vanquished the
Danes as they wasted the country, are wont in their owne praise
to chaunt this rhyme:
The
vale of Holmesdall
Never wonne, ne never shall.
5.
This Rhie Gate carrying a greater shew for largenesse than faire
buildings, hath on the South side a Parke thicke sette with faire
groves, wherein the right Noble Charles Earle of Nottingham,
Baron of Effingham, and Lord Admirall of England hath a house
where the Earles of Warren and Suthrey had founded a prety
monasterie. On the East side standeth a castle mounted aloft, now
forlorne and for age readie to fall, built by the same Earles and
of the vale wherein it standeth, commonlie called Holmescastell.
Under which I sawe a wonderfull vault carried under the ground of
arch worke over head, hollowed with great labour out of a soft
gritte and croumbling stone, such as the whole hill standeth of.
These Earles of Warren, as wee finde in the Offices of
Inquisitions, held it in chiefe of the King in their Baronie,
from the conquest of England. Hence runneth this river downe by
Bechworth Castle, for which Sir Thomas Browne obtained of King
Henrie the Sixth the libertie of holding a Faire. For it is the
habitation of the Brownes, Knights, out of which familie since
our grand-fathers can remember, when Sir Antonie Browne had
married Ladie Lucie, the fourth daughter of John Nevil Marquesse
Mont-a-cute, Queene Marie honoured his sonnes sonne with the
title of Vicount Mont-acute. Some few miles from hence Westward
Effingham sheweth it selfe, the possession not long since of
William Howard (sonne to that Noble Thomas Duke of Norfolke that
triumphed over the Scots), who being created by Queene Marie
Baron Howard of Effingham and made Lord High Admiral of England,
was first Lord Chamberlaine unto Queene Elizabeth of most happy
memorie, and then Lord privie Seale: whose sonne Charles now
flourisheth, Lord great Admirall of England, whom in the yeere of
our Lord 1597, the same Queene Elizabeth honoured also with the
title of Earle of Notingham, of whom more in my Annales,
but now returne we to the river.
The Mole now being come as
farre as Whitehill, whereon the Box tree groweth in great
plentie, at the foote thereof hideth himselfe, or rather is
swallowed up, and thereof the place is called The Swallow, but
after a mile or two neere unto Letherhed bridg boiling up and
breaking forth, taketh joy to spring out againe, so that the
inhabitants of this tract may boast as well as the Spaniards that
they have a bridge feedeth may flockes of sheepe. For this is a
common by-word most rife in the Spaniards mouthes as touching the
place where there river Anas, now called Guadiana, hideth
himselfe for ten miles together. Thus our Mole, rising up afresh,
hasteneth faire and softly by Stoke Dabernoun, so named of the
ancient possessors the Dabernouns, gentlemen of great good note,
afterward by inheritance from them the possession of the Lord
Bray; and by Aescer, sometime a retiring place belonging to the
Bishops of Winchester. And then very neare Molesey, whereunto it
giveth name, sheadeth himselfe into the Tamis.
6.
After Tamis hath taken unto him the Mole hee carrieth his streame
Northerly and runneth fast by Kingstone, called in times past
Moreford, as some will have it, a very good mercate towne for the
bignesse, and well frequented; well knowne also in old time by
reason of a Castle there belonging to the Clares Earles of
Glocester. Which towne had beginning from a little towne more
ancient than it of the same name, standing upon a flat ground and
subject to the inundation of Tamis. In which, when England was
almost ruinated by the Danish wars, Athelstan, Edwin and
Etheldred were crowned Kings ‡upon an open stage in the
Marke place,‡ and of these Kings heere crowned it came to be
named Kingston, as if one would say, The
Kings towne. Tamis,
now turning his course directly Northward, visiteth another
place, which the Kings chose for themselves sometime to sojourne
at, which of the shining brightnesse they called Shene, but now
it is named Richmond, wherein the most mighty Prince King Edward
the Third, when he had lived sufficiently both to glorie and
Nature, died, with sorrow that he hee conceived for the death of
that most valiant and Martiall Prince his sonne, which sorrow
pierced so deepe and stucke so neere to him and all England
beside, that it farre exceeded all comfort. And verily at this
time if ever else England had good cause to grieve. For within
one yeere after, it lost the true praise of militarie prowesse
and of accomplished vertue. For both of them by bearing their
victorious armes through all France strucke so great a terror
wheresoever they came that, as the father might most worthily
with King Antiochus carrie the name of thonder-bolt, so his sonne
with Pyrrhus deserved to be named the Aegle. Heere also departed
Anne wife to King Richard the Second, sister of the Emperor
Wenzelaus, and daughter to the Emperour Charles the Fourth, who
first taught English women that manner of sitting on horsback
which now is used, whereas before time they rode very unseemly
astride, like as men doe. Whose death also her passionate husband
tooke so to the heart that he altogether neglected the said
house, and could not abide it. Howbeit King Henry the Fifth
readourned it with new buildings, and Shene, a prety village hard
by, he joined thereto a little religious house of Carthusian
Monks, which he called The house of Jesu of Bethelem. But in the
raigne of Henrie the Seventh this princely Palace was with a
wofull sudden fire consumed all most to ashes, howbeit rising up
againe forthwith farre more beautifull and glorious, as it were a
Phaenix out of her owne ashes, by the meanes of the same King
Henrie. It tooke this new name Richmond of the title he beare,
being Earle of Richmond before he obtained the Crowne of England.
Scarce had that noble King Henry the Seventh finished this new
worke, when in this place he yeelded unto nature and ended his
life; through whose care, vigilancy, pollicy and fore-casting
wisdome for times to come the State and common-weale of England
hath to this day stood established and invincible. From hence
likewise his sonnes daughter Queene Elizabeth, a most gracious
Ladie, ninetie and foure yeere after having lived fully to the
contentment of nature (for 70 yeere old she was or much
thereabout) when it pleased God to call her out of this world,
was received into the sacred and celestiall societie. A prince
above her sex of a manly courage and high conceit, who lively
resembled as well the roiall qualities of her Grandfather as she
did his princely presence and countenance, the Worlds love and
joy of Britaine. And so farre was she, a woman though she were,
from degenerating and growing unlike her noble Progenitours in
that continued course of their vertues, that if she surmounted
them or not, surely she equalled them to the full. Well posterity
may one day heereafter be so thankfull as to yeeld heereto a
gracious credite (neither doe I heere by way of flatterie set a
false colour and glosse upon the truth), that a Virgine for the
space of forty foure yeeres so ruled the roiall Scepter as that
her subjects loved her, enemies feared her, and everyone with
admiration honored her, a thing in all foregoing ages of rare
example. For whose death England throughout, running all to
teares amid mones and grones, should have lien forlorne in most
piteous case comfortlesse, had not presently upon her departure
out of the world the most mild and gratious King James (on whom
as the true and undoubted heire to her Crowne all mens minds were
set and eies fixed) with his sacred and bright beames shone unto
us, and thereby put us in most comfortable hope of endlesse joy.
Whom so long as we behold heere, we beleeve not that she is
deceased. And why should we once say that she is deceased, whose
vertues live still immortall, and the memoriall of whose name
consecrated in mens hearts and in eternity of times shall survive
for ever?
7.
Thus farre swelleth the Tamis with the accesse of the flowing
tide of the sea, about LX Italian miles by water from his mouth.
Neither to my knowledge is there any other river in all Europe
that for so many miles within land feeleth the violence of the
Ocean forcing and rushing in upon it, and so driving backe and
withholding his waters, to the exceeding great commodity of the
inhabitants bordering thereupon. Whither this commeth by reason
that from hence he hath in maner no crooked turnings and winding
reaches, but with a more streight and direct channell carrieth
his currant into the East, as being for the most part restreined
and kept in with higher bankes, and dilating himselfe with a
wider mouth than all other rivers, lieth more exposed and open to
the Ocean, which by that most swift whirling about of the
celestiall Spheres from East to West is forceably driven and
carried that way (as sometimes I have beene of opinion), let
Philosophers dicusse, unto whom I willingly leave these matters
and such like to handle. Yet some few verses as touching these
places and this argument, have heere out of the
Marriage betweene Tame and Isis,
if haply they may content your tast:
Then
on the right hand Richmond stands, a faire and stately thing,
So
cal’ d of us (but Shene of old), which name that prudent
King
Henrie it gave, because to him it brought in fathers
right
The Honor and the Stile whereby he Earle of Richmond
hight.
But it of Edward King (helas), our Hector, wailes the
death,
Whose soule heere freed from body which it skorn’
d, with vitall breath,
Departed hence right willingly, in
heaven to live for ay.
Whom had not cruel-sudden death
untimely fetcht away,
He would by sword have thee be reft, o
France, of Valois line,
Or them of thee.
And
a few verses set betweene:
Tamis
here by turnes alternative doth feele both ebbe and flow
Of
Sea, by course of wandring Moon that rules tide heere blow.
As
oft as she with ech eight point of heaven above doth meete,
Or
holds the points full opposit, as lights doe change and
fleete,
He growes more full, and sooner hath recourse to
flowing tide.
And then in pride of heart he saith, “All
rivers else beside
Vaile [defer] unto me. No streame so farre
through Europe keepes againe
His tide so just, unlesse the
Scheld and Elb my brethren twaine.”
8.
About foure miles from the Tamis within the Country, Nonesuch, a
retiring place of the Princes, putteth downe and surpasseth all
other houses round about: which the most magnificent Prince King
Henrie the Eighth, in a very healthfull place called Cuddington
before, selected for his owne delight and ease, and built with so
great sumpteousnesse and rare workmanship that it aspire to the
very top of ostentation for shew; so as a man may thinke that all
the skill of Architecture is in this one peece of worke bestowed
and heaped up together. So many statues and lively images there
are in every place, so many wonders of absolute workmanship, and
workes seeming to contend with Romane antiquities, that most
worthily it may have and maintaine still this name that it hath
of Nonesuch, according as Leland hath written of it:
The
Britans oft are wont to praise his place, for that through
all
The realme they cannot shew the like, and Nonesuch they it
call.
As
for the very house it selfe, so environed it is about with Parkes
full of Deare, such dainty gardens and delicate orchards it hath,
such groves adorned with curious Arbors, so prety quarters, beds,
and Alleys, such walkes so shadowed with trees, that Amenitie or
Pleasantnesse it selfe may seeme to have chosen no other place
but it where she might dwell together with Healthfulnesse. Yet
Queene Marie made it over to Henrie Fitz-Alan Earle of Arundell
for other Lands, and he, when he had enlarged it with a Librarie
passing well furnished, and other new buildings, passed over all
his right when he died to the Lord Lumley, who for his part
spared no cost that it might be truly answerable to the name; and
from him now it is returned againe by compositions and
conveiances to the Crowne. Neere heereunto (and worth the noting
it is) there is a vaine of potters earth highly commended and
therfore the deerer sold, for the making of those crucibles and
small vessels which goldsmiths use in melting their gold.
9.
Not farre from hence the cleere riveret Wandle, in Latin
Vandalis,
so full of the best trouts, issueth forth from his head neare
Cashalton.Wandle while it is yet small receaveth his first
increase by a rill springing at Croidon, in times past called
Cradidin:
which standing under the hils is very wel knowne, as well for the
house of the Archbishops of Canterburie, unto whom it hath
belonged now this long time, as for Char-coles which the
townesmen make good chaffer [commerce] of. The inhabitants report
that in old time there stood an house of the Kings in the West
part of the towne neere unto Haling, where the husbandmen dig up
otherwise rubble stone, which house the Archbishops having
received it by the gift from the King, translated unto their owne
neerer the river. And neere unto this, the right reverend father
in God Dominus John Whitgift Archbishop of Canterburie of most
praiseworthy Memorie in his most pious affection founded and
endowed with living a very faire Hospitall for the releefe of
poore people, and a schoole for the furtherance of learning. As
for that sudden swelling water or Bourne which the common people
reports to breake foorth heere out of the ground, presaging, I
wote not how, either dearth of corne or the pestilence, <it>
may seeme not worthy once the naming, and yet the eventes
sometime ensuing have procured it credit. Neere unto this place
stands Beddington, wherein is to be seene a very faire house
beautified with a delightful shew of right pleasant gardens and
orchards by Sir Francis Carew, Knight. For the ancient seat it is
of the Carews, who being descended from the Carews of Moulesford
(of whom also are come the Carews of Devonshire), having for a
long time flourished in this country, but especially since Sir
James Carew matched in marriage with the daughter and one of the
coheires of the Baron Hoo and Hastings. ‡To digresse a
little from the river, Eastward from Croiden standeth Addington,
now the habitation of Sir Oliff Leigh, wherby is to be seene the
ruble of a Castle of Sir Robert Aguilon, and from him of the
Lords Bardolph, who held certaine lands here in fee by Serjainty
to find in the Kings Kitchen at the coronation one to make a
dainty dish which they called mapigernoun
and
dilgerunt.
What
that was I leave to the skillfull in ancient Cookerie, and
returne to the river.‡ Wandle, increased with Croidon water,
passing by Morden, divideth it selfe to water Merton, in the old
English tongue Meredun,
situate in a most fruitfull soile. A town made famous in times
past by the death of Kinulph King of the West Saxons, who was by
Clito, that is, a Prince of the bloud, slaine heere in a small
cottage of an harlot upon whom he was enamoured, and Clito
himselfe, by King Kinulphes followers immediately stabbed,
suffred condigne punishment for his disloiall treachery.‡Now
it sheweth onely the ruines of a Monastery that King Henry the
First founded for blacke Canons by the procurement of Gilbert
High Sheriffe of Surry in the yeere 1117, which was famous for
the Statute of Merton enacted heere in the 21 of King Henrie the
Third, and also for Walter de Merton, founder of Merton College
in Oxford, borne and bred here.‡ Above Merton farther from
the river is seated Wibandune, now commonly Wimbledon, where when
overmuch prosperity had hatched civill broiles among the English
Saxons after the British warres were now ceased, Ethelbert King
of Kent struck up the first Alarme of civill warre against his
own countrimen. But Caulin King of the West Saxons discomfited
him in this place with a mighty great slaughter and losse of men,
having slaine his principall leaders Oslan and Kneben, of whom
peradventure that entrenched rampier or fort we have heere seene,
of a round forme, is called Bensbury of Knebensbury. But now the
greatest ornament of this place is that goodly house so
beautifull for building, and so delectable for faire prospect and
right pleasant gardens, which Sir Thomas Cecil, Knight, sonne to
that most prudent Counsellor of state Lord Burghley, built in the
yeare 1588 when the Spanish Armada made saile upon the coast of
England.
10. Two miles to the South lies Woodcot, where by a tuft of trees
upon an hil-top there are to be seene manifest signes of a prety
towne and diverse wals built of flint stones. Concerning the
populousnesse and wealth whereof, the neighbour inhabitants
report very much. This in my conceit was that Citie which
Ptolomee called Niomagus, and the Emperour Antonine Noviomagus.
Neither neede we to seeke from elsewhere proofe hereof, but from
the correspondency of distance. For as the old Itinerary
noteth,
it is ten miles from London and twenty eight from Vagmiaci, now
Maidston. Many a mile therefore went they out of the way that
placed Noviomagus either at Buckingham or at Guildford. This was
a principall Citie of the Regni, not unknowne to Marinus Tyrius a
most ancient Geographer, whom Polemee taking upon him to censure,
taxeth for that he had set Noviomagus of Britaine by Climate more
North, and by accoumpt of miles more South than London.
11.
Wandle now after a few miles entreth the Tamis, when it hath
given name to Wandlesworth between Putney, ‡the native soile
of Thomas Cromwell, one of the flowting-stocks of fortune,‡
and Batersey, some times in the Saxons tongue called Patyryks-ea
and in Latine Patricii
Insula,
that is,
Patricks Isle,
and, which now we seeke, an house of the Kings termed Kennington,
whereunto the Kings of England in old time were wont to retire
themselves, but now finde wee neither the name nor the rammell
[remains] thereof. Then is there Lambith or Lomebith, that is to
say, a Lomy or clayish rode or hith,
famous in former times for the death of Canutus the Hardie, King
of England, who there amidst his cups yeelded up his vitall
breath. For hee, being given wholly to banquetting and feasting,
caused roiall dinners foure times every daie (as Henrie of
Huntingdon reporteth) to be served up for all is court, choosing
rather to have his invited guests to send away whole dishes
untouched, than other commers unbidden to call for more viands to
bee upon his table. But now this place is of the greater name and
more frequented by reason of the Archbishop of Canturburie his
pallace. For Baldwine Archbishop of Canturburie about the yeare
of Christ 1183, having made an exchange with the Bishop of
Rochester, purchased a manour in this place wherein hee beganne
to build a palace for him selfe and his successors, which they by
little and little encreased. But when they went about to erect a
collegiat Church here also, good God, what posting there was to
Rome with complaints and appeales from the Monkes of Canterburie,
how many fiery thunderbolts, menaces and censures were sent out
from the Bishop of Rome against these Archbishops! For these
Monkes were in bodily feare least this would bee their utter
undoing, and a prejudice unto them in the Elections of the
Archbishops. Neither were these blustering stormes allaied untill
the said church newly begunne was laid levell with the ground.
Adjoyining hard to this is the most famous mercate towne and
place of trade in all this shire, which at this daie they call
The Burrough of Southwarke, in Saxon speech Suthwerke,
wich is the
South worke or building,
because it standeth South over against London, the Suburbs
whereof it may seeme in sort to bee, but so large it is and
populous that it gives place to few Cities of England. Having
beene as it were a corporation by it selfe, it had in our fathers
daies Baliffes, but in the reigne of King Edward the Sixth it was
annexed to the Citie of London, and is at this day taken for a
member, as it were, of it, and therefore when wee are come to
London wee will speake more at large thereof.
12.
Beneath this Burrough the Tamis forsaketh Surrie, the East bound
whereof passeth in a manner directly downe from hence Southward
neere unto Lagham, which had their Parliamentarie Barons called
Saint John de Lagham in the reigne of Edward the First, whose
Inheritance came at length by an heire generall to John Leddiard,
and some-what lower in the verie angle well nere, where it
bendeth to Southsex and Kent, stands Sterborrow Castle, the seat
in ancient times of Lord Cobham, who of it were called of
Sterborrow, where the issue proceeding from the bodies of John
Cobham Lord of Cobham and Cowling and the daughter of Hugh Nevil
flourished a long time in glory and dignity. For Reginald Cobham
in King Edward the Thirds daies being created Knight of the
Garter, was Admirall of the sea coasts from Tamis mouth
West-ward. But Thomas the last male of that line wedded Lady
Anne, daughter to Humfrey the Duke of Buckingham, of whom he
begat one onely daughter named Anne, married unto Edward Burgh,
who derived his pedigree from the Percies and Earles of Athole:
whose sonne Thomas, made by King Henrie the Eighth Baron Burgh,
left a sonne behind him named William. And his sonne Thomas, a
great favourer of learning and Lord Governor of Briell, Queene
Elizabeth made Knight of the Garter and Lord Deputy of Ireland,
where hee honorably ended his life pursuing the rebelles. As
touching Dame Aeleoner Cobham descended out of this familie, the
wife of Humfrey Duke of Glocester, whose reputation had a flawe,
I referre you to the English Historie, if you please.
13.
Now are wee to reckon up the Earles of this shire. William Rufus
King of England made William de Warrena, who had married his
sister, the first Earle of Surrey. For in that Charter of his by
which hee founded the Priory of Lewis, thus we read: Donavi
&c.,that
is, I
have given and graunted &c. for the life and health of my
Lord King William, who brought me into England, and for the
health of my Lady Queene Mawd, my wives mother; and for the life
and health of my Lord King William her sonne, after whose comming
into England I made this charter, who also created me Earle of
Surry &c.,
whose sonne William succeeded and married the daughter of Hugh
Earle of Vermandois, whereupon his posteritie (as some supposed)
used the Armes of Vermandois, viz., Chequy
Or and Azure.
His sonne William dying in the Holy-land about the yeare 1148,
had issue, a daughter onely, who adorned first William, King
Stephens sonne, and afterward Hamelin the base sonne of Gefferey
Plantagenet Earle of Anjou, both her husbands, with the same
title. But whereas her former husband died without issue, William
her sonne by Hamelin was Earle of Surrie, whose posterity,
assuming unto them the name of Warrens, bare the same title. This
William espoused the eldest daughter and a coheire of William
Marescall Earle of Pembroch, the widow of Hugh Bigod, who bare
unto him John, ‡who slew Alan de la Zouch in presence of the
Judges of the Realme.‡ This John, of Alice the daughter of
Hugh le Brune, halfe sister by the mothers side of King Henrie
the Third, begat William, who died before his father; and hee of
Joan Vere the Earle of Oxfords daughter begat John Posthumus,
borne after his decease and the last Earle of this house, who was
stiled, as I have seene in the circumscription of his seale,
Earle of Warren, of Surry and of Strathern in Scotland, Lord of
Bromfield and of Yale, and Count-palatine. But hee dying without
lawfull issue in the twelfth yeare of Edward the Thirds reigne,
Alice his sister and heire, wedded unto Edmund Earle of Arundell,
by her marriage brought this honour of Surrey into the house of
Arundells. ‡For Richard their sonne, who married in the
house of Lancaster (after his father was wickedly beheaded for
siding with his Soveraigne King Edward the Second, by the
malignant envie of the Queene) was both Earle of Arundell and
Surrey, and left both Earledomes to Richard his sonne, who
contrari-wise lost his head for siding against his soveraigne
King Richard the Second. But Thomas his son, to repaire his
fathers dishonour, lost his life for his Prince and countrie in
France, leaving his sisters his heires for the lands not
entailed, who were married to Thomas Mowbraie Duke of Norfolke
&c. to Sir Rowland Lenthall and Sir William Beauchampe Lord
of Abergeveny.‡ After by the Mowbraies the title of Surry
came at length to the Howards. Howbeit in the meane while after
the execution of Richard Earle of Arundel, King Richard the
Second bestowed the title of Duke of Surry upon Thomas Holland
Earle of Kent, which honour hee enjoied not long. For while hee
combined with others by privie conspiracies to restore the same
King Richard to his libertie and kingdome, the conspiracie was
not carried so secretly, but contrarie to his expectation brake
forth and came to light. Then fled hee, and by the people of
Cirencestre was intercepted and cutte shorter by the head. After
him Thomas Beaufort, Chancellour to the King (if wee give credit
to Thomas Walsingham) bare this dignity. For in the yeare of our
Lord (as hee saith)1410 the
Lord Thomas Beaufort Earle of Surrey left this world. Now
let Walsingham to this point make good that which hee writeth:
for in the Kings Records there is no such thing found, but onely
this, that Thomas Beaufort about that time was made Lord
Chancellour. But certaine it is, and that out of the Recordes of
the kingdome, that King Henrie the Sixth in the nine and twentie
yeare of his reigne created John Mowbray , the sonne of John Duke
of Norfolke, Earle Warren and of Surrie. And Richard, second
sonne of King Edward the Fourth, having married the heire of
Mowbray, received all the titles due to the Mowbraies by creation
from his father. Afterward King Richard the Third having
dispatched the said Richard and by impious cruell meanes usurped
the kingdome, that hee might by his benefits oblige unto him the
house of the Howards, created in one and the same day John Lord
Howard Duke of Norfolke, as next cosin and heire to the
Mowbraies, and his sonne Thomas Earle of Surrie, in whose
of-spring this honour hath ever since bene resplendent, and so
continueth at this day.
This County hath in it Parish Churches
140.
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