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HISTORY OF LAOIS/LEIX

(Queens County)

 

Origin of County name:

The small county of Laois was created as Queen's county, twinned with King's County (County Offaly) in the 16th century from lands seized from the local Irish chiefs, the O'Mores, Fitzgeralds, O'Dempseys and O'Dunnes.
 
The English also planted Portlaoise, calling the town Maryborough after Mary Tudor for a time. Small plantation towns are dotted throughout the flat farmland of the county, which rises up to the scenic Slieve Bloom Mountains on its northern border with Offaly.
 
The Book of Leinster, a historical and religious account of the High Kings of Ireland between 1151 and 1224, was in the possession of the O'Mores of Laois for centuries and is now on show at Trinity College Dublin.

Initially called ‘Queen’s County, it was renamed Laois after the War of Independence,  (1919-21) in honour of the Loigis/Loigsi, late Iron Age Pict mercenaries who helped Welsh invaders (the Laigin) conquer Leinster.

There are more than 1,000 historical sites and monuments in the county, some telling the story of the Mesolithic times of 8,500 years ago, others tracing the history of the Neolithic farmers. The county had a strong Christian establishment by the sixth century, but many of its monasteries fell prey to the Viking hordes, as evidenced by a re-discovered Viking longboat at Dunrally. The Normans gained control of the best land in the county by around 1325, but a gaelic revival occurred during the 14th century. This revival was summarily ended when the O’Mores had their lands confiscated by the English in the 16th century.

Laois was established out of a number of unrelated Gaelic territories and earlier chiefdoms and referred to as the Queen’s County by a parliamentary act in 1556, during the reign of Queen Mary Tudor of England in 1556. In 1558, Queen Elizabeth came to the throne. A commission was appointed in 1561 to define the boundaries of Laois and Offaly and to divide the counties into baronies. This was because many English people were settling in these counties at the time. It, along with Offaly, became the first area to be planted in Ireland.

Location

Dominated by the towering Rock of Dunamaise, it seems as if Laois has protected its secrets for generations. But historical treasures do exist. From the ancient Round Tower of Timahoe, the elegant magnificence of Emo Court or the wild and lonely isolation of the Slieve Bloom mountains, Laois boasts a diversity of remains and monuments to a varied and proud past.

In the tranquil days of the early Christian era Laois was a haven of piety and sanctity, the silent ruins which today are scattered throughout the county, gentle but poignant reminders of the monastic era which originally shaped our Christian heritage. The sept or seven-fold system seems to have been a peculiarity of Gaelic civil life interwoven with ecclesiastical divisions and custom. An old common saying was 'he (she or it) is the talk of the seven parishes.' The 'Seven Laoises' was a loose description of both land divisions and clan divisions and the following names were generally recognised as the Seven Clans of Laois: O'Moore, O'Lalor, O'Doran, O'Dowling, O'Devoy (O'Deevy), O'Kelly and McEvoy.

The Normans came amidst the din of military clamour but they were quickly absorbed by the local population and Laois continued throughout the medieval era as a Gaelic outpost on the borders of the Pale. However, the storm clouds were looming on the horizon. For even though the plantation of Queen Mary was easily brushed aside as the Great Hugh O'Neill marched south towards Kinsale the administrative framework had been established which allowed the modern county unit to emerge and which would allow future plantations to succeed. The 17th century saw the arrival of Cromwell and his troops and with his customary barbarity he proceeded to obliterate the progress of centuries. The Rock of Dunamaise was blown apart by rampaging Roundheads in 1650 and Laois, like the rest of the country, was quickly subjugated. The rich, fertile lands of Laois passed to the new colonists, the delightful demesne and impressive houses still in existence, statements of the affluence and prosperity which the county afforded. So come and explore, invite Laois to tell of its past, and discover a wealth of history and heritage from every generation of Ireland's past in this relaxing part of the Midlands.

HISTORY

Laois is fortunate in its historians, yet there is much still to be told. The Office of Public Works has identified more than one thousand sites and monuments in the county, but there are more.

The earliest people in Laois were small bands of Mesolithic migratory hunters-fishers-gatherers who appeared about 8500 years ago. Then came Neolithic farmers who left at least a chert javelin head near Glenkitt in Slieve Bloom, and burial mounds in Clonaslee and Cuffsborough.

In 2500 B.C. Bronze Age people arrived with new ideas and practices. They left examples of the fulacht fiadh or cooking place, wonderful weapons and ornaments, and hill forts such as Clopook and Monelly. Their megalithic monuments may include the Ass's Manger (possibly a wedge tomb near Luggacurren, a stone circle in nearby Monamonry ("Druid's Altar"), and the standing stone in the motte and ring fort at Skirke near Borris-in-Ossory.

The pre-Christian Celtic Iron Age is one of bloody conquest by a succession of ruling dynasties. We are left with their ring barrows and forts, and a wealth of heroic literature originally in oral form.

By the early sixth-century Christianity was well-established in the county. Most of the early churches and monastic foundations were of now rotted wood. "There is something of the melancholy of the human condition in these holy places, of the joy and sadness of brief life, of the search for meaning and a place... These are the most sacred places in Laois. Many of the monasteries, founded by genuinely holy men, became too wealthy to be ignored by predatory native warrior aristocracy and by marauding Vikings perhaps from the re-discovered longphort at Dunrally near Vicarstown.

About 1175 - 1325 the Normans had control of the best land in the county. They founded boroughs such as Castletown, Dunamase, Durrow and Timahoe, and brought the feudal system, economic organisation, new farming, the rabbit, architecture, literature and learning. Left on the ground are mottes and baileys, manor farms, Lea Castle and Dunamase. Gaelic society survived in the bogs and forests and foothills of Slieve Bloom.

The fourteenth-century brought a Gaelic revival and Anglo-Norman decline. Laoighseach O Mordha "violently ejected almost all the English from their lands and inheritance". The most impressive of the monuments that have survived from this violent Gaelic period are the tower houses or "castles".

The revival of English power in the sixteenth-century was fiercely resisted by the O'Mores. Even so, in 1548 their lands were confiscated, and a "campa" was built at Portlaoise. In 1556 the "campa" known to the English as the Fort of Leix, or Fort Protector, was renamed Maryborough in honour of Queen Mary. Also in 1556 orders were issued for the plantation of Laois with loyal English settlers. The settlers lived in constant fear. At least three times the town was plundered and burned. The most famous of the O'Mores was Owny MacRory O'More, chieftain of Leix until his death in 1600. He is best remembered for his defeat of English forces at "the Battle of the Plumes" (between Ballyknockan and Ballyroan) in 1600, and in the same year his capture of the earl of Ormond, commander of the English forces, whom he imprisoned in Gortnaclea castle (near Aghaboe). "On the death of Owny... Leix was seized by the English; and they proceeded to repair their mansions of lime and stone". After the Battle of Kinsale in 1601 the Gaelic order collapsed. By 1610 the seven septs of Leix were transported to remote parts of Connacht and Munster.

The wars of the seventeenth-century engulfed the county. Roger O'More was one of the prime rebels in 1641. The revolt with its exaggerated stories of cruel slaughter of Protestants almost coincided with the start of the civil war in England. When Cromwell came to Ireland in 1649 he believed he was doing God's will by avenging the slaughter of 1641, and wished to restore order to unruly Ireland. The destruction of many of the tower houses was the work of Hewson and Reynolds, two of Cromwell's colonels. Woods were cleared, Roman Catholic landowners, their families and retainers were transplanted, while tenants and landless labourers who stayed behind were retained in their old capacity to serve the new Protestant settlers. The rest of the century saw further reduction of Roman Catholic landowning in the county reinforced by the Penal Laws.

Most of the eighteenth-century, was a period of relative calm, consolidation, enclosure and landscaping when many of the county's finest houses were built. The 1798 rebellion had sordid and sectarian aspects throughout the country. And the resultant demise of Henry Grattan's Parliament in 1800 saddened his last years in Dunrally near Vicarstown.

By the 1840's the population of the county was about three times its present number. Then came the Great Famine of 1845 - 9, and the county's three workhouses couldn't cope. Many small ruined houses especially in the Slieve Bloom Mountains bear testimony to this calamity. The rest of the nineteenth-century and the episodes which led to the foundation of the state in 1922 all had important places and participants in Laois.

Top 12 Tourist attractions in the county:

  1. Abbeyleix House and Gardens

  2. Castles (Ballaghmore Castle, Kinnity Castle, Lea Castle, Dysart Castle, Srahan Castle and Moat)

  3. St Canice’s Monastery

  4. Emo Court and Gardens

  5. The Great Heath of Maryborough (one of the most important archaeological sites in Ireland)

  6. Heywood Gardens in Ballinakill

  7. Killeshin Church (contains some of Ireland’s finest medieval stonework)

  8. Mountmellick Quaker Museum

  9. Rock of Dunamase

  10. Slieve Bloom Environmental Park

  11. Stradbally Steam Museum

  12. Timahoe Church and Round Tower.

Famous natives of the past from the county:

  • Cecil Day-Lewis (1904-1972), British Poet-Laureate, 1967-1972
  • Charles Beale (1850-1930), founding president of the Federated Chambers of Manufactures of Australia
  • Claire Byrne, TV3 News Anchor
  • Colonel James C. Fitzmaurice (aviator, died 1965)
  • Darina Allen (1953- ), TV chef
  • Dr. Bartholomew Mosse (1712-1759), founder, Rotunda Maternity Hospital, Dublin
  • Dr. Daniel Delaney (1747-1814), Bishop of Kildare and Leighlin
  • Eileen Dunne (1958- ), TV newscaster
  • Evelyn Cusack, meteorologist
  • Frank Power (acting British Consul in French Foreign Legion, died 1884).
  • Hon. William Russell Grace (1832-1904), mayor of New York 1880-1885
  • Jacob Arthur (discovered eye membrane, died 1874)
  • James A. Graves (1827-1910), Australian commissioner of trade and customs, 1881-1883
  • James Fintan Lalor (1807-1849), Young Irelander
  • James Pim, railway engineer, "Quaker father of Irish railways"
  • John Barrett (1753-1821), Vice Provost, Trinity College, 1807-1821
  • John Lalor-Fitzpatrick (1875-1949), Nationalist MP for Ossory, 1916-1818
  • Joseph Beale (1770-1815), Quaker industrialist
  • Joshua Bewley, tea merchant
  • Kevin O'Higgins (1892-1927), former Irish Free State Minister for Justice
  • Kivas Tully (1820-1905), architect, Trinity College, Toronto, the Custom House and the Bank of Montreal
  • Liam Miller (publisher, died 1987)
  • Lisa Burke, Sky News weathercaster
  • Oliver J. Flanagan (1920-1987), Minister for Defence, 1976-1977
  • Owny MacRory O’More (chieftain, died 1600)
  • Patrick Cahill (prominent tenant-leader/first editor of Leinster Leader)
  • Peter Burrowes Kelly, (1811-1883), author "The Manor of Glenmore"
  • Peter Lalor (1827-1889), leader of the Eureka Stockade miners revolt, Melbourne
  • Rev. Dr. Patrick Collier (1882-1964), Bishop of Ossory, 1928-1964
  • Roger O’More (17th-century rebel)
  • Rt. Hon. Joseph Hutchinson (1852-1928), Lord Mayor of Dublin 1904-1906
  • William Dargan (1799-1867), responsible for the Industrial Exhibition, 1853

(Source: A Guide to the Heritage of Co. Laois & Local Ireland).


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